BUBA is a 36-key wireless keyboard
| Part | Count | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Nice!Nano V2 | 2 | Analog on aliexpress |
| Kailh Choc 1350 switches | 36 | aliexpress |
| Kailh Choc 1350 sockets | 36 | aliexpress |
| Keycaps | 36 | Should be 1.65x1.65 cm, for example aliexpress |
| Blind keycaps | 2 | Optionally, you can buy 2 blind keycaps, like this one |
| Reset button YD-3414 | 2 | aliexpress |
| Power switcher MSK-12C02 | 2 | aliexpress |
| LIPO battery | 2 | 401230 or 301230 (last one is smaller, but will also work) |
| PH2.0 connector for batteries | 2 | You can buy kit |
| PH2.0 angled connectors for PCB | 2 | aliexpress |
| MCU sockets | 4 | |
| MCU pins |
| Part | Count | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 3D printed top | 2 | |
| 3D printed bottom | 2 | |
| 3D printed MCU cover | 2 | |
| Flat head screw M2x4x4 | 8 | aliexpress |
| Threaded inserts M2xL3xOD3.2 | 8 | aliexpress |
Warning First flash the microcontroller to make sure it works, before soldering it in
Both the left and right halves of the keyboard use identical PCBs, so the steps below apply to each side
- Solder the special pads to the top side of each PCB
These pads will connect PCB traces to the correct side of microcontroller
- Solder two 12-pin sockets to each PCB, directly onto the header pins you just installed
You have two options for socketing the microcontroller (MCU):
- Use dedicated socketing pins, or
- Improvise using resistor or diode legs (trimmed leads)
- Insert the socketing pins (or trimmed leads) into the 12-pin sockets
- Tape down the sockets to prevent the pins from getting accidentally soldered to them
- Place the microcontroller on top of the inserted pins
- Make sure everything is aligned correctly
- Carefully solder each pin to the corresponding pad on the microcontroller
- Take your time and ensure each connection is clean and solid
- Once soldered, you can gently remove the microcontroller using tweezers
- This gives you a removable, socketed setup — useful for reprogramming or replacing the MCU later
- This step is necessary because you’ll need to place the battery underneath the MCU later on
With the microcontroller in place, it's time to install the hot-swap switch sockets
- Take one hot-swap socket and place it into a switch footprint on the PCB
- Make sure the sharp corner of the socket is facing bottom-left of the switch position
⚠️ Orientation is important for proper electrical contact
-
Solder each socket individually to ensure it sits flush and properly aligned
-
After inserting the socket:
- Hold it firmly in place
- Solder one pad, then check alignment
- Once it's aligned and flat, solder the second pad
- Continue socket-by-socket until all switch positions are filled
With the sockets in place, let’s finish the essential components: the reset button and power switch
- Insert the reset button into the holes. Make sure it sits flat against the board
- Solder all 4 legs
The reset button is used to put the microcontroller into bootloader mode when flashing firmware
- Insert the power switch, ensuring proper alignment
- Solder the switch legs to the PCB (3 pins and 4 case legs for stability)
Once both components are soldered, you're ready for the final hardware steps like installing key switches and assembling the case — or move on to flashing the firmware if you're testing before final assembly. Let me know how you'd like to continue!
In this step, you’ll solder the angled PH male connector and prepare the battery connection
- Insert the angled PH male connector into the battery pads on the PCB
- Make sure it faces upward
- Solder the pins securely on the underside of the board
-
Take a PH 2.0 female connector and insert the battery wires into it:
- Red wire → Positive (BAT+)
- Black wire → Ground (GND)
-
Crimp and insert the wires into the correct slots
-
The required polarity is different for the left and right halves:
- On the right half, the positive wire must be on the right (when viewed from the front of the board)
- On the left half, the positive wire must be on the left
Warning Getting this wrong can damage your microcontroller or charging circuit. Double-check before plugging anything in
- Carefully plug the battery’s female PH connector into the male socket you just soldered
- Place battery underneath the microcontroller
- Tuck the battery and wires neatly in place
- Put microcontroller back in place
Repeat all the steps to the other side of the PCB
You're now finished with all soldering! Next step: assemble the keyboard case and install mechanical switches
With all soldering done, it’s time to assemble the keyboard into its case.
-
Take the MCU cover piece and glue it to the top part of the case
- Align it carefully so it sits flush and doesn't interfere with the microcontroller or ports
- Use a small amount of superglue or plastic adhesive — avoid excess to prevent seepage into switch areas
-
Using the tip of a soldering iron, press the brass threaded inserts into their slots in the top case.
- Heat the insert gently and push it into the plastic until it’s flush
- Let it cool fully before handling
- Gently insert the fully assembled PCB into the top case. Make sure the USB port and power switch are accessible through the case openings
-
One by one, insert the mechanical switches into the top case.
- The switches will also help hold the PCB in place by snapping into the hot-swap sockets
- Press each switch down firmly until it clicks into both the plate and socket
- Place the bottom part of the case over the assembly.
- Align the screw holes with the threaded inserts.
- Insert and tighten screws gently — don’t overtighten to avoid stripping the inserts or cracking the plastic. Sure! Here’s step 6 added in the same style:
- Press each keycap firmly onto its corresponding mechanical switch
Your keyboard is now fully assembled!